I just ran across a type or racing last night browsing the DFW Corvette Forums called Open Road Racing. If you haven't heard of it, it is an "across the desert highways" generally 50-60 miles in two directions. (From one town to the destination town, then when all cars are accounted for, timed back to the starting point)

This looks like killer fun. I have a C4 Vette but, I noticed that 70% of the cars that enter are Vettes with just a couple of Porsches and NO 914's.

I want to do this in my '74 914/4.

The class I want to drive is the 115MPH average speed class. I know my car reads it goes that fast but, I am worried about sustained speed, engine heat, I think it may be pushing the limits of the engines RPM range.

Would any of you experienced guys suggest a list of things you would do to make a standard 914 into a vehicle for this type of racing?

I have a 1.8L block built to something over a 2.0. My Dad had it built around 1988. It's running dual Dellorto 45's so whatever size engine goes with the 45 flow, that's probably what the engine size is.

My thoughts are (correct me on importance and please offer suggestions on the order of things):

Body and suspension:
sway bars (Fr & r)
air dam
GT spoiler
roll cage and (2) 5 points (wife will be navigator)
Do wider tires make sense or will it rob too many horses with the /4?
Should I run any fiberglass body panels? Do they make a big difference?

Engine:
External oil cooler
Anything else you guys could suggest?

Will lightened flywheel make a difference in rotating mass? Can you feel the difference or no?

I am in the 220# range, wife is 138#

I imagine you guys running track cars hopefully with a /4 have some experience you can lend to make sure I don't waste precious cash on unnecessary things.

I missed this years race local to me as it's actually tomorrow.

Here is a little video of a past race:
Big Bend Open Road Race 2010

Here is a pic of my 914:


Thanks fellas.
Stu

Since the goal of the race to to average the speed you are classed in, and the winner is the guy who is closest to his bracketed speed, I'd shoot for a slower class. You would still have a good time at the 100mph class, maybe not over strain your engine, and you could be competitive. I am not sure you would be competitive in the 112mpg class in a 1911, 2056 or 2011 (depending what your engine is, unless it was built for this kind of action).

As to changes, look at the class rules, and let that be your guide. I don't think you need to be running FG panels or super light flywheel. You will want an oil cooler and an accurate CHT gauge to make sure you are not over heating your heads. You will also want to get an accurate speedo, or a GPS to accurately tell speed.

And, of course, the driver dropping 30 pounds would probably make a larger difference then the car dropping 30 pounds. ;-)

Zach

Sustained high speed won't bother your car if everything is in original or better working order. Spent many years in Germany and the German cars are built for that, read up on what your tire pressures should be, CHT gauge is a great idea and keep your eye on your oil level, not unusual to use a bit more oil at sustained high speed. Use common sense, don't overdrive your ability and have a good time.

Ian Stott
Moncton
Canada

Is this legal? It couldn't be. Government's business is taking the fun out of everything. Sort of a "we're not happy 'til you aren't happy" thing.
Speaking of top speeds, the salesman who sold me my '73 1.7 told me that the car's 109 mph top speed could be increased to 114 if I wanted to have Brumos lower the front end. Wish I had. What are the top speeds of the 1.8 and the 2.0?

The "constant" speed would not really be that as there are turns and such and no matter how brave you are your brain will tell your foot to lift. I would suggest a fully rebuilt tranny, new bushings AND a transmission cooling system to help eliminate the weakest part of the 914. I would suggest new wheel bearings all around, new and bedded in brake pads and possibly converting the front brakes to M calipers with vented rotors. For the interior I would suggest a pair of full wrap around aluminum race seats so you are fully held in place and there is NO body movement. A good 5 or 6 point harness is probably mandatory I imagine? You can put on tall tires to help with the reduction in RPMs and if you do get the tranny worked on, a taller R&P or 5th gear would also help. I would suggest gauges that show air fuel ratio, actual oil pressure and temp and also transmission temp.

For body mods, raise the rear of the roof with spacers about an inch or inch and a half so the air coming in from the front will exit out the top over the engine cover and break the vacuum that forms there. You do not want anything that will increase wind resistance so NO GT flares or wings. I would suggest lowering the car with a slight downward rake in the front to help with downforce. Road racing shocks would be a very wise investment as it will keep the car planted.

Once the car is ready, take it to a dyno shop and do a 115 MPH run for 20 or 30 minutes or so to see what will break as it is better to have it happen there than on the road and get hurt or something.