*EDIT* Having trouble getting pics to upload.

Injury and getting my garage back are prompting the sale of my orange '71 from eastern Washington / western Oregon. Car is located in Charlotte, NC.

I'll get the bad out of the way first:

Salvage title. The car rear ended another vehicle sometime in the past. The left headlight bucket was pushed back to the point where it rippled the inner fender. Some horrible bodyshop clipped the LF corner and did just about as awful a job that could be imagined. With the frunk closed, minor misalignment of the headlight door to the trunk is noticeable, with it open, the real hack job is clearly visible. Headlight motor operates normally, but lid will not seal. Lid was replaced at the time of repair. I can tell this because of the respray, and the rust/cracking near the safety release. It is the worst rust on the car.

Car was apparently tapped in the back at the time of the accident, because there is bondo in the rear panel (badge holes filled) and slight deformation of the reinforcement member in the rear trunk. The trunk floor is undamaged though.

Related to the body repairs, the paint is NOT right. It is off by some margin; too much red in the orange. When the car was acquired, it had a recently badly dented driver's door. A relatively clean late model door was included with the car, but I did not install it. I could not find an early door that was clean and dry enough to do the car justice, so I repaired the original door. It took me about 16 hours to get it right, and some shrinking and relief cutting was required to get it 100%. The repair is visible from the inside of course, but I am rather proud of how well the outer skin turned out. The thinnest of filler skim coats was applied.

Back to that paint. I got a pint of Glasurit base coat (car is in 2 stage paint), and tinted it by eye as best I could. It looked pretty good initially, so I did not bother blending the adjacent panels. After clear however, it was apparent that I hadn't added enough red. I said screw it and didn't bother to spray it again nor blend it. Somebody sanded the top smooth and repainted it matte black. It looks terrible IMO. Chrome early rear bumper and black early front. WTF.

The rest of the finish on the car is very well applied. There is one spot lifting on the RR fender lip, but that is due to an adhesion problem, not a bodywork issue.

While reassembling the driver's door, the vent window (triangle) seal I got from Sierra Madre turned out to be an epic piece of crap. Spent a good hour trying trim and fit it, but ended up not using it. The driver's door is disassembled except for the outer handle and door latch.

More bad: Original tail shifter trans has a weak 1st and 2nd synchro, of course. It will probably need at least 1/R and 2/3 operating sleeves, synchro rings, and 1/2 dog teeth to make it right. It has a whine, not obnoxious, but sounds like the R&P may have been run low on oil in the past.

The original injected 1.7 ran pretty well. Adjusted the valves, replaced the pushrod tube seals, ignition tune-up, repaired vacuum leaks, replaced the dead idle air valve with a later model one, dialed in the fuel pressure and verified the MAP was working. Car then proceeded to stall on me on a drive one day about 50 miles from the house. Disgusted, I parked it in the garage and disconnected the battery. haven't driven it since. (1.5 years ago). Oh yeah, it has a new clutch, but the rear seal (I think) drips.

Rear brake calipers w/o parking brake operation - somebody didn't know what they were doing.

Shocks and struts worn out. All Bushings pretty much shot.

Almost all the rubber on the car is petrified and need to be replaced.

Set of fake Fucks installed that were painted the correct body color. looks pretty tacky.

Turn signal switch bad, horn inop.

Missing front and rear trunk carpet and panels, driver's seat torn.

That's enough for awfulness, now on to the GOOD:

Not lying, this is the driest, rust-free 914 I have ever owned, and among the top 5 I have worked on (going back to the early 90s). It is remarkably dry. The HellHole is almost perfect, the battery tray appears to be original. The rear trunk floor is without pinholes. There is no bubbling of any paint anywhere. It came from eastern Washington. It must have spent its entire life there. Since it was been in NC (4 years), never driven in the rain, maybe rained on 5 times while parked outside, has spent 95% of its time indoors.

One key operates the whole car.

Non-AC, has rear window defrost switch but wrong glass in it. Original radio, uncut dash, excellent pad.

I have a ton of spares. Planned on building a 2270 or 2316 for it.

(2) side shifters, one complete, one disassembled
(2) GA 2 liter engines. one complete, one disassembled
Pair of 1.7 "Q" casting heads, reworked by Brothers. They have had the business done to them, EVERYTHING. Relocated 12mm plugs, stainless valves, double springs, manganese bronze guides, 56cc chambers, extensive porting on intake and exhaust, plugged vent holes. These heads need a LOT of cam and compression. Screamer 2270/2316 heads.
Pair of stock, used 1.7 "Q" bus heads. Very nice condition.
(2) complete std 2.0 bearing sets, one Silverline, one NOS Metal Leve
New set AA 94mm P/Cs. 10cc dish - meh
NOS NPR 1.7 big bore kit (1910cc)
New Scat C25 cam - meh
New SLR 296 cam. Too much LSA for an NA engine (112 degrees), great turbo cam.
New set of Brazilian lifters
Complete Lemfoerder turbo tie-rod kit
pair of 75-76 2.0 heat exchangers - meh
Front and rear Hawk HPS pads, still in the boxes.
Chinese progressive carb kit - meh
Chinese 031 distributor - meh

Probably dozens of other things I have forgotten.

$15K OBO

Text (980)999-3061