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> Camber adjustment
Geezer914
post Apr 19 2012, 02:40 PM
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I just had my 914 aligned. Plan on doing some auto crossing. The most they could get for the front camber was .1 left front and .4 right front. How can I increase the camber without spending $450 for a set of custom camber plates?
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Dr. 914
post Apr 19 2012, 03:57 PM
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caster should probably stay the same but maybe if you are only auto crossing the car change the front toe in to zero and the camber in the front to 1 degree and the rear camber to two degrees negative. Keep the rear toe at zero and the front caster at 6 degrees


QUOTE (Geezer914 @ Apr 19 2012, 03:40 PM) *
I just had my 914 aligned. Plan on doing some auto crossing. The most they could get for the front castor was .1 left front and .4 right front. How can I increase the camber without spending $450 for a set of custom camber plates?

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Geezer914
post Apr 19 2012, 05:34 PM
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I want to increase camber, sorry I misprinted castor in my post
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john rogers
post Apr 19 2012, 07:38 PM
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You can get struts that have the spindle angle moved. That is about the same cost as the plates though. There are also upper strut mounts that are offset and have solid bushings and you can move the camber either way then. Those are not real cheap either AND if you replace them you'll need another alignment. WHile you are at it might as well have the car balanced.........
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larryM
post Apr 24 2012, 09:33 PM
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my car has those custom negative camber struts - opposite problem - you cannot bring it into anywhere near street align specs for either camber or caster - even with Tarett monoballs ($450) at full adjust limits and reversed sides

(alignment by SporTech in Cambell, CA)
.
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r_towle
post Apr 25 2012, 10:25 PM
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Use a die grinder with a burr bit...or a rat tail file and a beer or three... and oval out the top strut mount holes...the three allen headed bolts.

Push both struts in as far as you can, measure the camber and pull one back to match the least amount of negative camber...
One side always seems to go a bit further than the other.

Not parts needed, just some time.

Easy enough to do at home with a camber gauge...then get it aligned again after you are done.

Toe on ther rear should be zero, so if you plan to drive it anywhere, it will suck on the road.
If you trailer it, go for more toe on the rear...otherwise stick with zero.



rich
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jmill
post Apr 26 2012, 10:02 AM
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QUOTE (r_towle @ Apr 25 2012, 07:25 PM) *
Use a die grinder with a burr bit...or a rat tail file and a beer or three... and oval out the top strut mount holes...the three allen headed bolts.


If it were that easy there wouldn't be a market for $450 camber plates. The holes you speak of are specifically sized to limit adjustment for a reason. You can't move them much, if any more without the stock upper mount contacting the sides of the large center hole. He posted this on the other forum and it's pretty clear his alignment shop wasn't up to the task. They maxed out his caster and still had room to give him more negative camber.
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Geezer914
post Apr 28 2012, 05:27 AM
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I loosened the bolts and took a pry bar and was able to move the camber plate another 1/4" in. So its back to the alignment shop! Thanks for all the replys.
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larryM
post May 25 2012, 10:54 PM
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agreed - even with my Tarrets there is not enuf room in that 'well' for significant movement

QUOTE (jmill @ Apr 26 2012, 08:02 AM) *
QUOTE
Use a die grinder .


If it were that easy there wouldn't be a market for $450 camber plates. The holes you speak of are specifically sized to limit adjustment for a reason. You can't move them much, if any more without the stock upper mount contacting the sides of the large center hole. He posted this on the other forum and it's pretty clear his alignment shop wasn't up to the task. They maxed out his caster and still had room to give him more negative camber.

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r_towle
post May 25 2012, 11:57 PM
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QUOTE (jmill @ Apr 26 2012, 11:02 AM) *
QUOTE
Use a die grinder with a burr bit...or a rat tail file and a beer or three... and oval out the top strut mount holes...the three allen headed bolts.


If it were that easy there wouldn't be a market for $450 camber plates. The holes you speak of are specifically sized to limit adjustment for a reason. You can't move them much, if any more without the stock upper mount contacting the sides of the large center hole. He posted this on the other forum and it's pretty clear his alignment shop wasn't up to the task. They maxed out his caster and still had room to give him more negative camber.

You are right, I must be thinking of some other type of car....

I have no clue how a 914 works.
My bad
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