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> Inner Long Reinforcement Kits, Want a stiffer 914?
spunone
post Feb 14 2005, 06:14 PM
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Heh Mark Paypal has been sent thanks again I add ins just in case.Paul
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Trekkor
post Feb 14 2005, 09:40 PM
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QUOTE
Does that 6 hours include all the prep work, tar removal and top coating?


Yes and no (IMG:http://www.914club.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/lol2.gif)

I took all the carpet, passenger seat and back pad out at home before I went to the friend's shop.

Time is: perimeter tar removal ( air chisel is that fast ), fitment, welding, grinding, priming, cleanup and driver seat back in.

KT
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tat2dphreak
post May 11 2005, 11:45 AM
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would these be recommended on a street car, one that has had outer long repair?

or is this really just for handling rigidity? i.e would an auto-x car benefit more from this than a street car?
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Engman
post May 11 2005, 03:55 PM
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I do not as of now autocross - maybe in the future. I wanted something stiffer in my car. So I made one. I did not have a cross brace in my first one (the 73)and am currently putting one in my stalled project 74LE car.

The stiffness difference is noticeable.
But I am biased - read what thers have said and form your own opinions on what YOU want in your 914.

M
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JmuRiz
post May 11 2005, 04:11 PM
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What cross-brace are you talking about, the piece that goes on the back firewall?
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Engman
post May 11 2005, 04:25 PM
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Yep - years ago I made one of these but witout the cross piece (one that goes across the back) - the longs on the 73 had been bondoed on the inside by the former po so that HAD to be fixed.

M
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tat2dphreak
post May 11 2005, 04:50 PM
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hmm, I think I'll drive it first and see if it feels "flexy" on corners... I'm only repairing 2 small places...
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Travis Neff
post Jun 11 2005, 08:25 PM
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The kit is great, I concur with Trekkor on the install time. A full day to remove the interior, peel out enough tar and seam sealer, fit and weld.

Wayne, from the look of the lower section of your inner longs, this kit will help out a ton!
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grantsfo
post Jun 14 2005, 01:25 PM
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So its not clear to me. I'm in the process of building a leightweight AX and occasional track car. I will have a cage installed soon. Are there any benefits to using this if I have a well designed cage installed? For me will the 18 lbs of stiffness pay off on a 4 cyclinder car or is this kit primarily aimed at higher hp cars without cages? I guess if I'm going to add weight , adding it low on the car is good.
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Andyrew
post Jun 14 2005, 01:51 PM
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Grant, your car, running hoosiers will greatly benefit from the extra stiffening. The more stick that a car has, the more flex it recieves...

I'd say reinforcements, and a cage will be fine for you... You can always cut out 18# of sheet metal somewhere else!

I will be installing these in my car sometime this year.
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ewdysar
post Jun 14 2005, 05:30 PM
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If your cage will be tied into the suspension points, the inner long kit will be redundant. IMHO, it would be dead weight. It's primary reinforcement is the flex in the longs themselves (eliminated by a passenger compartment cage) and the connection at rear firewall (eliminated by tying into the rear console). So if your cage will be cockpit only, there may be some benefit to the inner long kit.

Of course, this is just in my head... I don't know ****.

Eric
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Engman
post Oct 9 2005, 11:19 PM
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Sale - Inner long kits - $240.00 limited number of sets available.

My painter screwed up. He was supposed to only ecoat one set and instead he did my entire last batch. Normally this is a $20.00 add to the cost, but since I called him on it I got the extra sets painted for free. Now I am passing the savings onto you. $240.00 plus shipping. First come first serve.

Or - pay full price and get free prioity mail shipping in the continental US.


Mark
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itsa914
post Oct 10 2005, 10:37 AM
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Mark I will take a set. Sending you a PM also.

Man my winter project list just keeps growing. (IMG:http://www.914club.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) (IMG:http://www.914club.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)
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Moron Sean
post Oct 10 2005, 11:04 AM
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Mark,
I want a set.
Can I paypal?
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Engman
post Oct 10 2005, 03:20 PM
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PM's sent!

M
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Moron Sean
post Oct 15 2005, 08:14 PM
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got mine today!

Thanks MARK!
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WRX914
post Oct 27 2005, 01:35 PM
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I have bought two items from Mark, and both items are what the doctor ordered! Mark is a honest man, he delivers exactly what he advertises... Great products Mark!

You da Man!

Keith


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Greenbuggy
post Nov 2 2005, 03:31 AM
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QUOTE (Engman @ Jun 22 2004, 07:38 AM)
You definately want the pressure off the longs - use the jackstands. (yes there is still stress in the longs on the jackstands- its just much reduced due to the distances of support)



M

Forgive a guy if these sound like dumb questions - I'll be posting pics/details up soon, but in short - I've got a guy who is paying me to restore his green '72 914 and he also has a parts car. As with all 914's it seems (but especially in the midwest) his car has rust and some sag, and of course that needs to be fixed.

Your products all look good, and I'll probably be making an order for your long reinforcement kit, pedal board and hell hole kit, god knows the car will need all of them. I'm determined to do this car right, and have previously resto'ed a '59 VW Type I chassied buggy that sat outside for 15 years, so I'm intimately familiar with what rust can do on a monocoque chassis and how to fix it.

That said - I have a few technical questions.

#1, I have jacks and jackstands and a smooth concrete floor to work on. Where would you suggest putting jackstands for the long repair, to keep the body straight while doing this repair? I'm guessing at the fronts and backs of the longs, but would like confirmation.

#2, the car needs floor pans repaired as well as the longs repaired. Obviously the longs will get repaired before the reinforcement plate goes on, but would it be easiest to replace the floors before or after the long reinforcement kit goes on?

#3, have any of you who have done this kit use some sort of brace where the targa top would go to keep the body straight up top while welding everything in place?

#4, lastly, I'm concerned about keeping rust away long-term for the owner of the car. I was thinking, after long repair, wire brush to bare metal, coat long in weld-thru primer, lay on reinforcement, weld in place, clean welds, POR-15 over the entire reinforced long assy, seam seal at edges, and final coat with some sort of epoxy based paint. Does this sound good to keep rust away long-term? Keep in mind that the entire underbody is also getting POR-15'ed, and that this is a midwestern car and will likely see rain and quite possibly even a little salt in the coming years.
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Greenbuggy
post Nov 2 2005, 06:43 PM
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One more I forgot - would you recommend doing this kit with the engine in or out of the car? The engine is coming out anyway for the hell hole repair and to get cleaned up.
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type11969
post Nov 3 2005, 06:05 PM
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This is what I have done, but I have a serious hell hole and lower pass long repair (the lower left corner of the left long is rotted through along with the std hell hole rot, I think the PO let the pass. floorboard fill with water, rot away, and then they replaced the rotted floor with a new one without fixing the long). I have a brace with a turnbuckle going from the upper pass. seat belt mount to the upper pass door mount, and another brace with a turnbuckle going from the lower driver door mount to (essentially) the upper pass seat belt mount. Without both my targa bar was not aligned with my windshield.

PS- Mark, I received my set a few weeks ago, great product! It will be a while before it gets installed though . . .
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