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> Timing/Ignition woes
Zaffer
post Sep 3 2019, 04:13 AM
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Erich
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From: Radiant, VA
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I have a '72 914 with a '74 1.8L in it (just swapped it in due to issues with the 1.7). I had to swap the 1.7L fan to the 1.8L as the engine received didn't have the fan with it. I marked the timing marks (white at TDC, red at 27 BTDC, and a red line at 34 BTDC, according to the article on Pelican Parts, if I'm seeing it correctly).

The distributor that was on the old engine is 0231178009 (non-vacuum advance) with a Pertronix ignitor in it and it never quite ran right with it. I swapped it into the 1.8L and the TDC position on this one is near cyl. #2 (when compared to TDC with a stock distributor), (it was the same on the 1.7L). Anyway, I timed it up on the engine using the articles on Pelican Parts, including timing with carbs as it has dual single barrel Webers. It runs okay, however if I remove cyl. 1 & 4 ignition wires so there is a little air gap between the leads and the spark plugs, it runs great! It does not do this on cyl. 2 & 3. I swapped the ignition leads between cylinders 3 & 4 to see if maybe I have bad leads, but the issue did not move with the wires. Why would this be? I've never experienced this before. It did the same thing on the 1.7L as well. The ground strap is connected and in good shape.

I swapped in the distributor that came with the 1.8L and the rotor is near the 12 o'clock position (facing the fan shroud) with this distributor. It is a vacuum advance with condenser and points. Now the car won't start at all. I have not checked the condition of the condenser yet. This appears to be the original distributor for the 1.8L engine, according to the part number, which I don't have on me right now. I also have not swapped out the distributor cap.

The reason we swapped engines is due to the 1.7L BURNING oil and barely running.

Any ideas/advice?
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Dr. 914
post Sep 3 2019, 10:43 AM
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Dr. 914
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sounds like you have a fouling problem, as when you air gap the wire, it causes a hotter spark and cleans out extra fuel in the cylinder, I would check the valve adjust, and then swap the plugs to start


QUOTE (Zaffer @ Sep 3 2019, 04:13 AM) *
I have a '72 914 with a '74 1.8L in it (just swapped it in due to issues with the 1.7). I had to swap the 1.7L fan to the 1.8L as the engine received didn't have the fan with it. I marked the timing marks (white at TDC, red at 27 BTDC, and a red line at 34 BTDC, according to the article on Pelican Parts, if I'm seeing it correctly).

The distributor that was on the old engine is 0231178009 (non-vacuum advance) with a Pertronix ignitor in it and it never quite ran right with it. I swapped it into the 1.8L and the TDC position on this one is near cyl. #2 (when compared to TDC with a stock distributor), (it was the same on the 1.7L). Anyway, I timed it up on the engine using the articles on Pelican Parts, including timing with carbs as it has dual single barrel Webers. It runs okay, however if I remove cyl. 1 & 4 ignition wires so there is a little air gap between the leads and the spark plugs, it runs great! It does not do this on cyl. 2 & 3. I swapped the ignition leads between cylinders 3 & 4 to see if maybe I have bad leads, but the issue did not move with the wires. Why would this be? I've never experienced this before. It did the same thing on the 1.7L as well. The ground strap is connected and in good shape.

I swapped in the distributor that came with the 1.8L and the rotor is near the 12 o'clock position (facing the fan shroud) with this distributor. It is a vacuum advance with condenser and points. Now the car won't start at all. I have not checked the condition of the condenser yet. This appears to be the original distributor for the 1.8L engine, according to the part number, which I don't have on me right now. I also have not swapped out the distributor cap.

The reason we swapped engines is due to the 1.7L BURNING oil and barely running.

Any ideas/advice?

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Zaffer
post Sep 3 2019, 10:53 AM
Post #3


Erich
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Joined: December 10, 2006
From: Radiant, VA
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I adjusted the valves before I put the engine in to spec in the Haynes manual. As for the plugs, I gapped them to spec as well, however they are cheap plugs. I have Bosch copper core, just haven't installed them yet. Could the distributor cap possibly be an issue?

I'll replace the plugs and re-try. I guess the carbs could also need adjusting?
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Dr. 914
post Sep 3 2019, 03:24 PM
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Dr. 914
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no the plugs are probably fouling because of a rich mixture, just make sure dwell and timing are on the money then adjust the mixture so the car will idle smoothly and the idle exhaust will not hurt your eyes

QUOTE (Zaffer @ Sep 3 2019, 10:53 AM) *
I adjusted the valves before I put the engine in to spec in the Haynes manual. As for the plugs, I gapped them to spec as well, however they are cheap plugs. I have Bosch copper core, just haven't installed them yet. Could the distributor cap possibly be an issue?

I'll replace the plugs and re-try. I guess the carbs could also need adjusting?

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