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> accusump good or bad
Evan Fullerton
post Jun 27 2008, 09:50 PM
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I just spend over 60 of my hour in instilation in 5 days ( time crunch to make an autocross, broke in the cam instead of Highschool Graduation, yea I know my priorities are out of wack with normal people) and more thousand than I would like to admit on a full race 2056 T4. I knew that my old 1911 was having issues so I took it in to FAT in Orange and told them to fix it. Good or bad the engine is now a 2056 with 8.6-1 compression, 1.8 heads that are fully ported and polished with 42x38 valves, double valve springs, a .507 lift 290 duration cam (spits flames) (IMG:http://www.914club.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/blowtorch.gif) , ceramic lifters, HD cast iron oil pump, yada yada yada... lots of shiny bits and about 140hp and a fair amount of tork above 3k RPM. any ways I put in a 96 pass oil cooler while I was at it and now the oil pressure light takes a while (3 to 5 seconds sometimes) to go out (didn't do it prior to cooler during the breakin). I'm not positive but I think that it is the oil draining out of the cooler lines (-10 line) that is causing the problem so my question is an accusump the way to go? They say it is great for pre-oiling which is what I want as FAT did something special with the oil pick up and said that I should be good for well over 1G so I should not need it for that problem (so far so good with one autocross on new motor).

I would realy like to protect my recent investment
So should I get an accusump (size?), something else, or stop worrying and just disconnect the coil and spin it for a few seconds prior to starting every time (anoying).

This is mainly just a race car that sees maby 100 street miles a month going to and from races with the occasional weakend drive.

Thanks,
Evan Fulleron
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KenH
post Jun 27 2008, 10:13 PM
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Yes - get an Accusump.

Not so much for starting a cold motor, but for keeping oil pressure during agressive turning when the oil moves away from the pick-up pipe.

Ken
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BeyondBad914
post Jun 28 2008, 12:12 AM
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with an essentially stock oiling setup like you have (slight mods from stock) I would say the Accusump is a good thing to have.

Additionally, if you rarely drive the car, I would put a kill switch on the ignition and do as you mention... roll the engine over until you get oil pressure, then start it. I don't know what psi that light goes out tho', so you might want to get a gauge. On my race car I can either go to the hassle of pulling my engine cover and priming with a drill (dry sump setup) or just be lazy like I usually am and roll the engine over until I see oil pressure (as in pretty much any oil pressure like 20psi). I flip the switch to power the ignition module then fire it up.

Switch over to Brad Penn oil if you aren't using it already, or a similar good quality oil. Look around the Club, there are threads about BP and other good oils to use with tappet cam setups. I run BP in my car exclusively.
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Randal
post Jun 28 2008, 01:38 AM
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I don't have any way to prove they work other than my last engine never had any bearing issues until by bi-pass valve failed.

That was like 5 years doing nothing but running flat out. Accusumps rock.
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Evan Fullerton
post Jun 28 2008, 01:52 AM
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The light goes out at something like 7 PSI. My engine builder told me to expect low oil pressure as in the early 911 standard of 10 PSI per 1000 RPM as they set it up realy loose. I don't know realy what oil pressure I have as I don't have a guage. What ever the oil pressure it seems as though the accusump is a good product despite the dislike of it by some. My starter is not strong enough to even turn the light off when cranking so I think that the accusump would be helpfull for pressurizing the system before starting.

Now do I need the 3 quart one or is the 2 quart one large enough. I have no realy feel for howmuch is required and how quickly it empties its self. I think a manual ball valve on the passanger side will be easy enough to turn before starting so no need for the remote selinoid.

I am currently running Kendal GT 20-50 but once the motor gets a few more miles on it (450 now) I will be switching over to Racing Redline 40 as it is available locally (one of the upside of living in socal, everything I need is within a 30 mile radius, I redid the entire motor and most of the supporting accesories without paying one cent for shipping or driving farther that 15 miles)
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KenH
post Jun 28 2008, 02:34 AM
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2 Qt is fine if the bearings are good. Mine takes 10-20 seconds to empty if it starts at 50-60 pounds.

Please consider Brad Penn Oil. Do a search on the the 914 & 911 sites and I think you will find Brad Penn oil is the favorite.

Even hot, my oil pressure is about 15-20 lb at idle (900 rpm).

Ken
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Rotten Robby
post Jun 28 2008, 10:40 AM
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Lots of performance engines are set up loose. The oil pressure light will come on at idle sometimes when it is warm too. As long as the oil is flowing... If you had built the engine yourself you would probably have been disturbed at how the rods would "wobble" on the crank when they were assembled and torqued. The oil pressure stiffens this up. At idle it only needs to flow. The stock light goes on at what? 6psi? You would hear bad noises if the engine was being hurt.
Now, that said, Accusump rocks. Once I sort everything else out and scout a place to put it one is going into mine. Randal has a nice set up. Sits accross the back of his rear trunk... Maybe he could show us his set up and how it connects...
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sww914
post Jun 28 2008, 11:53 AM
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I've been using a 2 quart Accusump for years. When I went to sticky tires I was depriving the engine of oil during and after long sweepers, cost me a bottom end. Mine is plumbed through the oil pressure sender port.
Livermore Performance is the cheapest place to get one, I use the one with the electric valve so it comes on when I turn the key on. I wait 5 seconds and then start the car, no more to the story.
I've had bad luck with synthetic oil in my 2056. I change the oil about every 500 miles so I don't need the extreme resistance to breakdown that the synthetic offers and it has contributed to my rings not seating properly. I'm using Royal Purple now because I can get it at Kragen.
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grantsfo
post Jun 28 2008, 12:40 PM
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I'd install an accusump if you are planning to ax a lot. And oils from either Brad Penn or Swepco oil are very wise investments.
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Brad Roberts
post Jun 28 2008, 02:16 PM
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Dump the Kendall out of it.. and be VERY careful which Redline you put in it. Only one Redline oil has what you want/need for your engine.

Accusump = good (IMG:http://www.914club.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Someone above mentioned cranking the engine over prior to bringing the ignition in for it too fire (great procedure) This exactly how all the 90% of the race world does it. Most people pre-heat the oil, and never turn the engine over, but instead turn over an external dry sump pump to 40PSI with warm oil.. then fire it off..


B
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URY914
post Jun 29 2008, 05:30 PM
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Where else have you plumbed these? I suppose I can just "T" in to my remote filter line, correct?

I also have a sandwich plate for an oil filter that I could install between the filter and the remote mount and than install a plug in one of the holes....easy.
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Evan Fullerton
post Jun 29 2008, 06:06 PM
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that was my question too. Would it be better in the to-cooler line or the return? Push oil through the engine I assume is better but still could leave an air bubble in the lines.
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URY914
post Jun 29 2008, 08:29 PM
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What about running the line right to the tuna car so it dumps right at the oil pickup?
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gregrobbins
post Jun 30 2008, 09:12 AM
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Plumbed properly, an Accusump will pump oil through the case even when the oil pump can't. If your running a full flow kit, plumb into the line leading into the case. If you don't have full flow, into your oil return from filter/cooler.

To the original question: keeping up oil pressure is always a good thing. Racing is the ultimate test and notice how many car run dry sump AND and accusump.
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