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> Trans Temp. Sender, located in speedo drive
BKLA
post Jun 26 2008, 02:58 PM
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I am machining an aluminum replacement plug for the speedo drive location that will allow a temp. sender to be placed into it. It uses the original "o-ring" from the speedo drive as well as the set screw location. It is tapped for the 1/8" sender that comes with the Autometer gauge.

I want to see what the temps are in the trans without a cooling / recirculating system for the typical DE/ track day session with the headers ceramic coated.

I don't have access to a lath, but I have a couple of local connections to price having it made.

[attachment=128016:speedo
.jpg]


Since I am making one for me, does anyone else want one? (race or AX only as this removes the speedo function)

Here's a link to the gauge I installed.

http://www.egauges.com/vdo_ind.asp?Type=Tr...amp;PN=ATM-2640

[attachment=128013:2640_d
.jpg]
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Britain Smith
post Jun 26 2008, 03:03 PM
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Good idea...

-Britain
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HAM Inc
post Jun 26 2008, 04:18 PM
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I like it! Please let us all know what temps you see.
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Brad Roberts
post Jun 26 2008, 06:59 PM
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I love the idea!

Let me throw some info out there for you (IMG:http://www.914club.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) The heat is generated by the R+P.. personally I believe the sensor should be closer to it. That area on the tranny is WAY back. A better spot?? how about the drain plug?? it is closer and is 100% submerged in gear lube (unlike the speedo angle drive)


Cant wait to hear the numbers.


B
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BKLA
post Jun 26 2008, 07:12 PM
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QUOTE
I love the idea!

Let me throw some info out there for you (IMG:http://www.914club.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) The heat is generated by the R+P.. personally I believe the sensor should be closer to it. That area on the tranny is WAY back. A better spot?? how about the drain plug?? it is closer and is 100% submerged in gear lube (unlike the speedo angle drive)


Cant wait to hear the numbers.


B


I agree... but I have had a hard time finding threading to fit.
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Brad Roberts
post Jun 26 2008, 07:20 PM
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Machine out a replacement drain plug for the sensor?? Just throwing out idea's..


B
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Evan Fullerton
post Jun 26 2008, 08:28 PM
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What about the backup light sender? Then you never have to deal with it when you change the trans oil.
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Brad Roberts
post Jun 26 2008, 08:44 PM
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Too high in the system (IMG:http://www.914club.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Ideally, you'd want the sender submerged in gear lube.


B
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john rogers
post Jun 26 2008, 09:01 PM
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I have had one of Jim Patrick's adapters for several years and I found the hottest they have ever got was nearly 300 degrees when racing in Tecate in 96 degree heat with lots of shifting and very shory straights. At the CA Speedway this past weekend in 104 degree heat but long straights the temps pealed at about 225 or so. At the 300 degree temp the trans was getting bulky to shift but still went between gears but was harder to shift. If you have a pump and cooler assy then you get about an extra quart of fluid and that really helps.
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BKLA
post Jun 27 2008, 01:40 PM
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John -

Are your headers painted, wrapped or ceramic coated? Do you run the engine with a seal and sheet metal in place? Rear valance? Is the car a tub or is the rear trunk removed?

I am curious as to your setup and how it compares to mine.

---------
Thought about the reverse light switch area... but I'd have to take the gear box apart to remove the pushrod that activates the switch.

I think I'll ask the machinist about machining a replacement plug for the drain hole. I'll still need a plug for the speedo area however. I don't like how the speedo drive hangs down without the cable.... too easy to catch and drag something....

Another thought... could you use the speed drive to turn a small pump? Trans cooler pump, I'm thinking.... gear lube is probably too thick and would shear the drive....
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BKLA
post Jun 27 2008, 01:46 PM
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Brad -

Couldn't I just drill and tap an old drain plug for the sender?? EDIT: ( That's what you were suggesting...Duh! My bad!)
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Brad Roberts
post Jun 27 2008, 01:53 PM
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Just don't forget that you need to remove it to drain the gear lube!! Make sure you can still get it out when needed.


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john rogers
post Jun 27 2008, 01:59 PM
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The car is a 2.5L six with all sheet metal, rubber seals and ceramic coated headers. I have a cooler and pump setup with the cooler mounted in the floor of the trunk for safety and a duct with a fan that has a suction in the front of the right rear fender flare. There is a small aluminum deflector that is in front of the cooler underneath the car to provide a low pressure area for the cooler outlet. From what I have experienced, I think the most temp increases come from the shifts and running at engine RPMs over 7K in prolonged periods. There are some picts on the Pelican site in the Racing forum as someone just asked about mounting a pump and cooler.
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BKLA
post Jun 27 2008, 02:12 PM
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QUOTE
Just don't forget that you need to remove it to drain the gear lube!! Make sure you can still get it out when needed.


B



I just have to unthread the sender, then let it drain slowly from the sender hole....

Umm, wait....New drain plug needs to be machined. I wouldn't want to wait for the gear lube to drain thu a 1/8 - 27 thread sender hole!
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BKLA
post Jun 27 2008, 02:14 PM
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QUOTE
The car is a 2.5L six with all sheet metal, rubber seals and ceramic coated headers. I have a cooler and pump setup with the cooler mounted in the floor of the trunk for safety and a duct with a fan that has a suction in the front of the right rear fender flare. There is a small aluminum deflector that is in front of the cooler underneath the car to provide a low pressure area for the cooler outlet. From what I have experienced, I think the most temp increases come from the shifts and running at engine RPMs over 7K in prolonged periods. There are some picts on the Pelican site in the Racing forum as someone just asked about mounting a pump and cooler.


John -

you had temps in the 225 - 300 range with a trans cooler AND ceramic coated headers!?! Man! Am I in trouble!
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john rogers
post Jun 27 2008, 05:19 PM
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Well, having thought about the bottom of the car, which gets neglected many times, I think the exhaust heat generation would be a factor only in an auto-x or a race where the speed of the car is holding the heated air under the car such as a very tight race course with short straights. I tried wrapping the exhaust years ago and after a race it was as hot as without the wrapping so I quit using it. So far since adding the pump and cooler assy I have had some bulky shifting due to high temps when they got to over 300 degrees although shifting was still possible. This happened with the 2L engine that had to rev much higher, sometimes to 8K in races so that will generate heat tremendously. The lower revving 2.5L engine is much easier on transmissions especially R&Ps.
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Brad Roberts
post Jun 27 2008, 06:45 PM
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Our 1.8 race collectors exit right below the diff housing of the tranny and the stinger exits directly below the "spine" of the tranny housing. We experienced "bulky" shifting towards the end of the races at Laguna and Sears (more shifting going on there) We attributed it to heat and the billet intermediate plate that the shift rails pass through. I'd like to work with someone on utilizing the shift rail bearings that a G50 uses for the shift rails as they pass through the tranny housing's. I know how they shift...


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BKLA
post Jun 28 2008, 10:58 AM
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john -

Your insight is very helpful! Mine is a 2.7, reving to maybe 7k. The local tracks Portland and Kent both have long straights. I was only expecting to see trans temp's in the 250's at worst!
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john rogers
post Jun 29 2008, 01:57 PM
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You can also add a "mister" system to make the cooler even more effective. I have a Pep Boys package windshield washer tank with a small pump and a line with 3 mister nozzles that run to my front oil cooler. I used it in a race at Tecate Mx several years ago when the straights were very short and it dropped the engine oil temps by about 15 degrees. It was the only time I have ever used it though but it could be used on a tranny cooler. In the "old days" the factory used to duct air to the transmissions which would help also.
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