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> front motor mounts, replacing
frank lamanski
post Mar 8 2012, 11:28 AM
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Here we go going to replace front motor mounts wuth motor in car. What doI need to know
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Dar's 914
post Mar 17 2012, 12:37 PM
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This is mostly thinking out loud but since nobody else has responded, I thought I would give you an opinion.
We changed ours after pulling the motor (for a rebuild) with the support bar in place, so this isn't based on first hand experience.

I think, as long as you can access the nuts on the top end of the mount where nuts secure it to the motor you should be able to change without removing the motor. Can't remember if there is any cooling ducting shrouding in the way here.

[indent][/indent]I would try to loosen those top nuts first and see if you get the nut started again once it is all the way off-

If that appears possible then support the motor - lots of support in places it won't hurt anything-cribbing jackstands, ect.

You'll have to deal with the shifter linkage - determine whether you have to remove it or can you lower the support bar enough to remove the mounts, same with clutch cable as it runs through as well.

Think if you undo shift lever at the transmission you'd get enough drop space to replace the mounts.

Just make sure the motor is fully supported, if you can get the top nuts off it should be doable.

From there you would undo the single bolt at the outer end of the bar at the body-you should be able to see / hear if your support of the motor is working as you loosen one side then the other.

Good luck.
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Dar's 914
post May 27 2012, 10:24 AM
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In case you haven't gotten around to this yet, it was pretty easy. Changed the front mounts yesterday.

What I actually did:
1. Car safely on jack stands in the rear both sides fairly high so you can get under the car easily.
2. Support the motor completely toward the front of the car, I used wood on the floor jack pad to distribute the load but recommend jack stands.

My order of removal-
3. I removed the long shift lever bar from the bar that comes from the shifter at the firewall, small allen wrench head screw. This allows for sufficient drop of the motor mount bar once it is removed. There is no need to remove the shifter bar at the transmission itself.
4. I removed the lower nuts -13MM (under the support bar toward the ground) for both motors.
5. Because other things maybe running through the support bar be prepared to support it somewhat - it never touched the ground during this process.
6. Next, ensuring the motor is well supported (our transmission mounts were new but I think having a look that everthing is good there before dropping the support bar is a good idea) remove the bolt on the outer end of the support bar -17MM
I used rachet above and wrench on the bolt end.
7. With the bar removed, half of each motor mount will likely be sitting in the bar-pull out, the other half mocking you from above.

8. For the half still connected to the mount at the motor, it isn't to hard to get a 13mm socket and the 1/4 inch drive up into the space above the nut- only a couple of clicks are available but it's enough to get it removed. The motor mount has a square sholder that sits into the mount and makes loosening the nut possible w/o holding the remains of the motor mount.

Reassembly-
10. Motor mount up to the actual mount on the motor- I dipped the end in locktite first then held the nut and washer in place on top of the actual mount and started screwing the motor mount into the nut-this is pretty easy
Once you are most of the way screwed in, seat the motor mount's squared shoulder into the actual mount and finish tightening from above with the 1/4 inch drive. Again not much space - couple clicks but at this point the more difficult parts are complete once you have done the 2nd mount.

11. Bring the support bar up guiding it onto the motor mounts, support the bar as you reconnect the outer bolts on each side. I put the nuts back on the lower ender of the motor mount after reconnecting the outer ends.
12. Once the suppport bar is back in place, I reconnected the shift linkage, this was possible without assistance, by wiggling the last section and holding the forward piece. Reinstall the pin-new one best- I used locktite this time.

That's it. If you haven't done it already it wasn't hard and I am glad to have the old mounts-rubber sheared-out of the car.

Good luck
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post Jan 15 2019, 02:57 PM
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